Yanun

"When I saw my neighbours leaving, I felt death."
- Ralub Bani Jaber, Yanun Elder

Yanun remains singular for me, unique in both people and place. It lies in the rolling mountains that eventually slope into the Jordan Valley, and as such its lands are fertile, the earth rich. For hundreds of years villagers have lived simply, sowing wheat among the olive groves surrounding their homes, grazing their flocks on the wildflowers that carpet the hills in...
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"When I saw my neighbours leaving, I felt death."
- Ralub Bani Jaber, Yanun Elder

Yanun remains singular for me, unique in both people and place. It lies in the rolling mountains that eventually slope into the Jordan Valley, and as such its lands are fertile, the earth rich. For hundreds of years villagers have lived simply, sowing wheat among the olive groves surrounding their homes, grazing their flocks on the wildflowers that carpet the hills in springtime. Bread, oil and cheese have been the staples of their existence.

It should be among the most beautiful places on earth.

I first visited Yanun just as the villagers were returning to their homes after being forced out by a group of Israeli settlers encamped in the surrounding hilltops. Since arriving years before these settlers had terrorized the village, eventually taking control of nearly all the traditional Palestinian farm and grazing lands - the wheat now sown only in the groves closest to the village, olives harvested from a fraction of the village trees, and the shepherds working in constant fear of attack. In the weeks prior to the villagers leaving Yanun armed settlers had been entering the village, firing live ammunition, fouling water reserves and finally burning the village generator, the only source of electricity.

In the first few months back villagers were left shaken and afraid, but had returned intent on remaining in their homes. Their day-to-day lives had become tense and filled with worry but everyone who had chosen to return was in agreement that the only best form of resistance available to them was to stay, to remain living on their family lands.
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